Some of this blog's most loyal readers may know that Bessie Stone's Cricket Dilemma graduated from the University of Pennsylvania some years ago. As such, people often ask BSCD for advice on where to visit anytime they travel to historic Philadelphia. Below, you will find a travel guide that BSCD recently put together for BSCD's biggest fan. Be sure to print out a copy and take it with you the next time you venture to the City of Brotherly Love!
A GUIDE TO HISTORIC PHILADELPHIA
Liberty Bell/Independence Hall – the corner of Chestnut Street and South 6th Street – Along with apple pie, Superman, Fanfare for the Common Man, and the New York Yankees, few things evoke imagery of Americana more than these two national landmarks located within 500 feet of one another on Independence Mall in downtown Philadelphia. As we all know from the Tony-award winning musical 1776, Independence Hall was the site of the Second Continental Congress’ debate over, and ultimate adoption of, the Declaration of Independence. Without this building, we might be wearing powdered wigs and eating fish and chips today. Unbeknownst to many, the U.S. Constitution was also signed at Independence Hall.
The relevance of the Liberty Bell, however, remains shrouded in some mystery. Legend has it that the ringing of the Liberty Bell summoned Philadelphians for the initial public reading of the Declaration of Independence and was also used to announce the conclusion of the Battle of Lexington and Concord. But many historians and engineers claim that the steeple from which the bell hung had deteriorated too much by that time to withstand its ringing. Nevertheless, the Liberty Bell really achieved its iconic status as a symbol for the abolitionist movement in the mid-1800s, and again as a symbol of unity following the Civil War. Although some argue that the Bell was first cracked when it arrived in Philadelphia in 1752, most agree that the crack expanded for the final time and rendered the bell unringable when it was rung to honor Washington’s birthday in 1846.
Both landmarks are a reminder that Philadelphia peaked as a city 232 years ago. Among American cities/towns, BSCD can only think of Plymouth, MA (landing site of the Pilgrims); Gettysburg, PA (the turning point in the Union’s battle against the Confederates during the Civil War); and BSCD's hometown (birthplace of BSCD) as other places whose best days are surely behind them.
Fun fact: If you look closely, you will notice that a quotation inscribed on the bell has the state spelled “Pensylvania,” not “Pennsylvania.” The original Constitution also spelled the state “Pensylvania.”
The Betsy Ross House – Arch Street b/t 2nd and 3rd – Diminutive in size, this bandbox packs a lot of historical punch, for the house lays claim as the site where Betsy Ross sewed the first American stars-and-stripes flag. Legend has it that George Washington himself visited Ross at this house and asked if she could commission a flag from a design sketched on a piece of paper he pulled from inside his coat pocket. Her response: “I do not know, but I will try.” The original design had 13 red and white stripes and 13 six-pointed stars, but Ross convinced Washington and his men that five-pointed stars would look better, and they agreed to the change. Although details of the initial encounter with Washington remain fuzzy, the Betsy Ross House affords the unique opportunity to meet Betsy herself (from 10 a.m.-3 p.m.) and ask her if the whole story is nothing but a pile of trash. BSCD wonders how much of an appearance fee she commands!
Strange, but true: As a child, BSCD thought that Betty Crocker, and not Betsy Ross, was responsible for having sewn the first American flag.
Christ Church & Burial Grounds – 5th and Arch - Located steps from Independence Hall, the cemetery is the final resting place for the “Father of Philadelphia” Benjamin Franklin. Among others interred there are Deborah Franklin (Ben’s wife), four signors of the Declaration of Independence (including George Ross, not to be confused with Betsy Ross’s uncle George Ross who was friends with George Washington and is largely credited as the reason why Washington chose Ross to sew the first flag), William Bainbridge (captain of Old Ironsides during the War of 1812), and David Franks (aide for Benedict Arnold at the time he pulled a “Benedict Arnold” and tried to turn West Point over to the British). The Church itself is a few blocks away (2nd Street b/t Market and Arch) and included President Washington, Benjamin Franklin, and Betsy Ross among its congregation. The burial ground located adjacent to the Church houses some notables as well, including Andrew Hamilton, who successfully defended John Peter Zenger against an accusation of libel. Everyone can appreciate a good lawyer (although some prefer them six feet under), so please pay homage as you see fit.
Note: The baptismal font still in use at Christ Church was the one in which William Penn (founder of Pennsylvania) was baptized. It was shipped from London to Philadelphia in the late 17th century.
Reading Terminal Market – 12th and Arch - A melting pot of odoriferous animations, this enclosed farmers’ market is every foodies dream, as over 85 merchants provide a cornucopia of fresh meats, fish, produce, and desserts. From live lobsters to Italian hoagies to pickled vegetables from the Pennsylvania Dutch, the Market has it all. For his first visit there, BSCD surveyed the vast array of ethnic cuisine and local delicacies and wound up ordering a hamburger from the diner. The Market first opened in 1891 and remained vibrant through two World Wars and the Great Depression. It was constructed in an old train shed and now sits adjacent to the city’s Convention Center.
From the Memory Bank: During BSCD’s junior year in college, his dad came down to visit for the sole purpose of going to Bassetts Ice Cream counter at the Market. BSCD thinks his dad secretly drove to Philadelphia the next weekend to go back to Bassetts without telling BSCD, because BSCD's dad commented on how much he enjoyed a flavor of ice cream from Bassetts that he didn’t get when he went there with BSCD.
Franklin Field – the corner of 33rd Street and Spruce Street, University of Pennsylvania - The nation’s oldest two-tiered stadium, Franklin Field has played host to a number of moments embedded deep in the rich tradition of American history. Littered among the snapshots that have helped make Franklin Field the most historic stadium in the country include 18 Army-Navy football games, FDR’s 1936 speech accepting the Democratic Party’s nomination for President, drunken Eagles fans pelting snowballs at Santa Claus during halftime of a December 1968 game, and, most recently, Penn’s 2000 Collegiate Sprint Football League Championship-clinching win against Princeton, perhaps its finest moment. Franklin Field can lay claim to a number of our nation’s firsts: the first scoreboard, the first football radio broadcast, the first football telecast, and Vince Lombardi’s first (and only) NFL playoff loss as a head coach.
Although much smaller crowds attend the regular Penn sporting events held at Franklin Field, a capacity crowd of 52,000 annually packs the stadium for April’s Penn Relays. Fans of the 2000 smash hit Unbreakable may recognize Franklin Field as the setting for several scenes in which Bruce Willis’ character works as a security guard.
In the summer of 2004, right after BSCD graduated, Penn switched the playing surface at Franklin Field from a concrete-like Astrotruf to a plusher SprinTurf. BSCD’s knees and ankles are still bitter.
Did You Know? In 1997, Franklin Field hosted the first-ever U.S. public concert. Bono rocked the joint as the lead singer of the Irish rock band U2. Seven years later, he returned to the stadium to deliver a commencement address for the Class of 2004.
Other Notable Places to Visit
US Mint – 5th Street b/t Race and Arch – The mint is unfortunately closed on weekends, but it’s in the area.
Declaration (Graff) House – 7th and Market – Thomas Jefferson penned the Declaration of Independence here.
Dolley Todd (Madison) House – 4th and Walnut – The former home of a young widower who became the namesake for a subpar brand of ice cream. Oh, and she later moved into some well-known residence in DC for a little bit.
The National Constitution Center – Arch b/t 5th and 6th (along Independence Mall) – The only 160,000-square-foot building in the country devoted entirely to a four-page document.
Franklin’s Print Shop – Market Street b/t 3rd and 4th – It’s that guy again. Long before he flew a kite, he made his name as a printer. When BSCD was younger, BSCD’s older brother tried to convince BSCD to recreate Franklin’s kite-flying experiment.
